Rosemary's Green Fingers

Everyone loves roses. No other flower carries as much mystique. They have a magical quality about them that hints of sweetness, perfection, and strength. They also have a reputation for being difficult to grow. Actually, nothing could be further from the truth. Even a novice gardener can grow these hardy perennial plants!

Choosing the perfect rose
Roses come in many sizes, shapes, colors, and clusters for every conceivable occasion and purpose. Miniature roses can edge a walkway, hybrid teas in a bouquet will impress a loved one, multifloras are the perfect size for a flower girl's posie, and climbing roses will decorate the side of a house while providing heady fragrance for those relaxing on the porch swing.

Buying a rose
Roses can be bought "bare-root" or "container-grown." Early in the season, garden centers stock bare-root roses, which are not established in soil. These don't have any foliage or blooms when purchased, and are usually less expensive than container-grown plants. Container-grown roses can be found through the growing season and, depending on the time of year, may be in any stage of growth or bloom. Some gardeners like to purchase them this way so they can see exactly what bloom the bush will produce.

Planting the rose
Roses love sunlight, so choose a cheery spot that gets plenty of sun, preferably early in the day. The morning sun helps dry foliage faster to avoid growth of diseases such as black spot or powdery mildew. Spacing the bushes slightly apart (at least 24 inches) gives the plants room to grow and allows the wind to "air dry" the foliage as well.

For strong root growth, it's always a good idea to improve the garden soil. If you are starting a new bed, create a rich, light soil by mixing organic matter such as peat moss, compost, or manure into the soil before planting. If you are adding a rosebush to an existing garden bed, simply mix these in with the soil from the planting hole.

Roses should be planted so that the bud union (that knobby swollen part at the base of the stem) is at ground level (or 1 inch below in northern climates). Usually, this means that the hole should be 12 to 15 inches deep and 15 to 24 inches wide. For bare- root roses, make a little mound in the center of the hole, then spread the roots out in a natural fashion. Fill in the hole with the soil/peat moss mixture and tamp down to eliminate air pockets. Mulch around the plant with additional compost and prune any damaged branches.

Feeding Your Roses
Feeding and watering your new garden additions will ensure an abundance of exhibition-type roses. If you are planting a bare-root rose, soak the roots in a bucket of water overnight before planting. Then, about an hour before planting, add a weak solution of rose food to the bucket to help avoid transplanting shock. Rose foods high in phosphorus and low in nitrogen encourage the best blooming activity.

Reaping the Harvest
Cutting is good for you and your roses. Pruning a rosebush can provide dining room table displays of beautiful tea roses, and also, encourage new growth. If you want to keep the blooms on the bush, wait until they have reached their splendor before pruning. Either way, make sure to make a clean cut with sharp, pruning shears. Make the cut at an angle slightly above a five-leaflet leaf to stimulate new growth. By making sure that at least two five-leaflet leaves remain on the branch, you can be sure the plant has enough foliage to continue strong growth and bloom production.

Roses provide satisfaction to the gardener, beautiful bouquets for the house, and visual interest for the garden. A simple thoughtful start, and regular feeding and watering, are all it takes to produce America's most magical flower.

This content of this article originated from www.scottscompany.com's "Garden Writers Resources."

What Do Master Gardeners Know That I Don't?

What Do Master Gardeners Know That I Don't?
Gardening is a growing pastime, and millions of people are engaged in some form of green thumb activity. The term "Master Gardener" is often bandied about, but people aren't quite sure what it means.

Master Gardeners are part of a group of more than 50,000 avid gardeners who have completed a state university run training program. Classes include basic botany, plant pathology, soils, environment, entomology and pesticides, IPM (Integrated Pest Management), vegetables, fruits, lawns, herbaceous ornamentals, propagation, and woody ornamentals. After course completion, these gardeners commit to answer questions about horticultural problems brought to the County Extension offices. Some questions are easy to answer, while others require research and a return phone call.

Master Gardeners are the first to admit that they don't "know it all" — that no one knows it all — that all gardeners are always learning. However, the program has taught them how to better research the answers to questions that gardeners have.

Share some of their knowledge and experience with the following tips:

Watering

• The best tools are soaker hoses or a wand on the end of a hose. Also, mulch is excellent for retaining moisture.
• If you are drowning your plants with love try lightening soil for better drainage with, for example, sand. Another option is lightweight, soil-less potting mix especially made for containers.

Feeding Frenzy

• For a fertilizing schedule that fits your busy lifestyle, use an extended time-release product.

Healthy Plants

• Closely monitor plant health, as a well cared for robust plant is better equipped to stave off pests and diseases.

The question in gardening is never how much you know or don't know. The question is how can you grow? Master Gardeners help you grow.

Fertilizing Your Lawn

No Time Like the Present to Start Improving Your Lawn
Ask your neighborhood garden center when you should begin a lawn improvement program, and chances are, they'll tell you "early spring." They're right, of course. Early spring is a great time to start improving any lawn, but it's not the only time. Researchers say the most important thing you can do to improve any lawn is to follow a good feeding program throughout the year, providing grass with the nutrients it needs to thrive all season long.

The biggest advantage of starting to revitalize in early spring is that's the only time of year you can prevent crabgrass from sprouting. Crabgrass is an annual weed that grows from seeds in the soil when warm weather arrives. Once new crabgrass plants become established, they are difficult to get rid of and can spread. If crabgrass has been a problem, it's always a good idea to start the improvement program as in early spring when crabgrass can actually be prevented. You can do this easily with a combination fertilization product that prevents crabgrass and, at the same time, nourishes the lawn.

Even if you miss that early spring opportunity, start fertilizing as soon as possible. With a long lasting, time-release fertilizer you only need to feed every two months through late fall. The following spring, start the feeding program again. The ideal fertilizing schedule, using a quality, long-lasting lawn fertilizer, requires only five feedings per year; early spring, late spring, summer, early fall, and late fall. By following this simple program, your lawn will receive essential nutrients at just the right time and produce the lush green grass everyone admires. That's how all beautiful lawns are made.

This content of this article originated from www.scottscompany.com's "Garden Writers Resources."


Building Cold Frames
Starting From Seeds
The Winter Garden
The Fall Vegetable Garden

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